Travel, 12 July

We had an excellent first day of travel in the region. Determined to wear a turban today, we began tying one at 6:45am and ended just after 8. We had to retie and redo the lars (wraps) several times. In the end, both our turbans had been retied as so-so products of human achievement and we missed breakfast. In addition, I was supposed to learn how to use the video camera before we left on the travels but our tardiness forced a crash course on videography at the first stop. I got the hang of it quick, just point, and shoot.

The day’s lineup included a Christian chapel and school in Kharar, where Sikhism scholar W.H. McLeod used to worship and teach.

Next up was Henderson secondary school, offering a glimpse of how classrooms and science labs are set-up.



We then began the trek to Naina Devi. Situated in the Shivalik Hills atop a peak overlooking Anandpur and the Punjab plains, the Goddess temple is a pilgrimage spot for Hindus, Sikhs, and others. It was uncharacteristically cool – in the 70s – with thick clouds obscuring our views of the valley and eventually a thick monsoon downpour. As we started to leave, a landslide blocked the road and we were forced to wait as a backhoe cleared the debris.





Making our way back down to the plains, we visited Anandpur. Established by the tenth Sikh guru, Anandpur features several gurdwaras and forts associated with the guru. We visited Kesgarh Sahib, the location where Guru Gobind Singh declared that all his Sikhs were the Khalsa and began the institution of khande di pahul (baptism of the double-edged sword).


The highlight of our visit was a meeting with the Jathedar of Anandpur Sahib. Siri Singh Sahib Trilochan Singh is one of five elected figures in charge of religio-political issues in the Punjab-Sikh community. He was very gracious, offering us tea and answering our questions. In addition, he gave a high honor by awarding all of us saropas (ceremonial saffron cloth) and Pashmini shawls.


Before leaving Anandpur, we visited Anandgarh Sahib – a model fort rebuilt on the site of historic fort. Although most of the original fort was destroyed or fell to ruin, a baoli (large well with steps) remained. Walking down into it is an amazing experience as the temperature changes and the musty smell of old water.


My last valiant for videography that day was atop a lookout with a panoramic view of the area. There were several Sikh youth crouching there as well gave me the courtesy of ducking as I filmed in a circle. After I had finished filming, I commented bahut khubsurat (very beautiful) and was met with approving sounds. As I climbed down, I was told ‘thank you’ and ‘see you soon’.