Saturday, September 20, 2008

Travel, 3 August (continued)

We arrived in Amritsar after a long day of travel, negotiating the tight streets of the old city and arriving at our destination of Guru Nanak Dev University. It was here that Dr. Balwant Singh Dhillon hosted us for a three-night guesthouse stay.

After settling in, we set off for the Darbar Sahib (the center of Sikh sacred geography).

Another pleasant surprise awaited us as we met the (then) Jathedar of the Akal Takht (Sikh political seat of authority). Siri Singh Sahib Joginder Singh Vedanti is the top figure in charge of religio-political issues in the Sikh community. For those of you who follow news from Punjab, Vedanti was ousted from office the next night, some 27 hours after our meeting.

Back to our night… Under the lead of the Jathedar, our group was ushered into the Harimandir Sahib (named the Golden Temple by the British). As we walked around, the usual ban on taking pictures and video was lifted.

Of course that was soon problematic after our G-Mann snapped one too many with a flash. We then had dinner at the langar, along with hundreds of other pilgrims.

Our wonderful evening concluded with a walk around the sarovar (tank for bathing) and a brief repose by its side.

This seems as good time as any to briefly expound upon the institution of the gurdwara.

In addition to being a place of worship for Sikhs, gurdwaras serve a social function in the community. There are three markers wherever a gurdwara is present: the Guru Granth Sahib, langar (community kitchen; usually a larger meeting hall than for worship), and the Nishan Sahib (saffron flag with the Sikh insignia).

The insignia is comprised of three symbols and represents the community’s obligation to feed the hungry and fight for the establishment of a just regime. These symbols are: degh (cauldron, represented by a circle), tegh (sword), fateh (victory, represented by two curved swords: miri-piri, temporal-spiritual).

Travel, 3 August (continued)

Our travels continued with a visit to the United Mission School in Suranasi.

Headed by Mrs. Eliezer and managed by the United Christian Institute (American Presbyterian/Methodist), the Mission School includes an English-medium boarding school, with girls and boys both educated and housed separately, and training for vocational certification in a number of professions.

The grounds also include a chapel and a large number of acres devoted to farming. The produce sold provides income for the schools. This is quite significant, as the institution receives no formal funding. Besides fees paid by students, small endowments are provided by a number of trusts previously established. As well, some property was recently sold to fund the growth of the infrastructure and new buildings.

The majority of the students are from Punjab, the children of landless laborers, day-wagers, and rickshaw drivers. Despite being a Christian institution, 70% of the students are from outside the Christian community.

Travel, 3 August (continued)

While in Jalandhar, we visited with Mr. Mahey, an influential figure in the Ad Dharm community and a relative of the mayor. In addition to visiting the community’s gurdwara or gurdehara, we sat down for a meal together.

Members of the Ad Dharm (a-dharm, without religion) community are followers of Ravi Das, a Hindu saint who lived in the 14th century. Ravi Das was against the caste system, challenging others by pointing out that his deeds proved himself to be of high caste. Some of his devotional songs (bhakti, in praise of the formless Divine) are included in the Guru Granth Sahib.

The Ad Dharm community is composed of Chamars (leather-workers, tanners), a prominent Dalit (oppressed) sub-caste. An interesting group; Chamars were once a nomadic tribal people who became an occupational group (jati). As such, many Chamars and Jats share surnames.

Of all the Chamars across northern India, those in Punjab are considered to be the most politically and socially influential. In the early 20th century, many Chamars, tired of continued caste oppression, renounced their Hindu faith and became Sikhs. They became Ad Dharmis, numbering 10 times more than mainstream Sikhs. Despite the promises of converting to a religious tradition that is against the recognition of caste, Sikh beliefs do not always reflect in practice. There continues to be social oppression complete with the use of separate gurdwaras in both India and the Diaspora.

The gurdwara we visited in Jalandhar is unique in Sikh religious practice. In most ways, it replicates the ‘traditional’ gurdwara – the Guru Granth is featured at the rear-center on a platform, surrounded by gifts and other finery, and a place for the congregation in front.

It differs as it features a portrait of Ravi Das alongside the Guru Granth. As well, there are portraits of Ravi Das and his disciple Mirabai on the walls.

A shrine dedicated to Mirabai is being built within the walls of the gurdwara complex, mirroring the one found in Rajasthan.

After our meal together, Mr. Mahey lectured on historical and contemporary issues of the Ad Dharm community.

On the topic of Indian politics he noted that although Gandhi spoke for the uplift of the downtrodden, those he labeled as Harijans (children of God), he never challenged the caste system. It was Dr. Ambedkar, a Dalit leader, who was the first politician to challenge the hierarchical structure of the caste system. In 1956, Ambedkar along with thousands of his Dalit followers converted to Buddhism. In fact, a correlation is often made between Buddhism, an age-old religion, and Ad Dharmis, an age-old people. While ‘shopping’ around for a more tolerant religion, Ambedkar considered Sikhism but decided against it when he found same system of Dalit oppression in Punjab.

Speaking on the use of separate gurdwaras, Mr. Mahey raised an important question: if guruship was instilled in the Guru Granth and all gurdwaras have the Granth, why are there separate gurdwaras for ‘communities’ within the Sikh community?
In a way, he answered his own question. We know that the tenth Sikh guru elevated the Sikh scripture to that of the Guru Granth and the community to the Guru Panth (the community as the Guru). The authority of the personal Guru was placed in the text and in the Panth, the right to take decisions on behalf of the community. The Ad Dharmis follow Ravi Das, a ‘Hindu’ saint, along with Sikh beliefs and practices. Yet, authority of personal guruship was only instilled in the text. This places the religious beliefs and practices of the Ad Dharmis at odds with mainstream Sikhism. Add to that some lingering social beliefs about caste and voila, the use of separate gurdwaras.

Despite limits society and religion places upon them, Ad Dharmis, like other Dalit communities, have benefited from economic uplift alongside an increase in social awareness and educational opportunities. For anyone interested in more about this community, please see Juergensmeyer’s Religion As Social Vision.

Travel, 3 August (continued)

We traveled on to Jalandar and visited the Ghadar Museum. This museum is a hall of portraits of Ghadar Party members.

I have mixed feelings each time I visit here. On the one hand, it’s a celebration of heritage and struggle – of revolution. On the other, the gallery is a collection of people deemed subversive – of rebellion. The British sentenced many of the faces staring back at me to death.

The Ghadar Party was founded in California in 1913. It was active in Indian politics, nationalist and socialist, until 1919. Its members were Indian immigrants, largely from the Punjab with the aim of liberating India from British rule. Many were associated with UC Berkeley and brought out a weekly pamphlet, The Ghadar. Editions were available in the scripts of Nashtaliq, Gurmukhi, and Gujarati scripts, highlighting targeted readers.

Activities of the Ghadar Party accompanied and influenced the swell of the revolutionary tide gripping India and its emerging leaders. Indian soldiers in the British Army were successfully enticed to revolt, leading to a number court-martialed in Hong Kong, Singapore, Iran, and Iraq. The British deemed Ghadar literature seditious and set about persecuting Party members. Many were charged for sedition and hung or sentenced to many years of hard labor at Kala Pani, the notorious British prison.

As a side note, the prison building, also known as the Cellular Jail, had seven wings that forked out of a watchtower at its center. All inmates were housed in cells that prevented communication with others. The architectural design was influenced by the idea of the Panopticon, developed by Bentham, and discussed at length by Foucault in his text Discipline and Punish. I think it’s a cool design, functioning through the power of thinking you are being watched.

Travel, 3 August

Our first stop of the day was Guru Nanak Mission Hospital, located in village Dhahan-Kaleran. Started and maintained by (Dr.) Baba Budh Singh, the complex includes medical facilities, a middle school (free education for the poor), a women’s nursing college, and hostels. Likened to an oasis, the hospital complex is a gated property with immaculate gardens, a clean atmosphere, and a welcoming and English speaking staff. A gurdwara is at the center of the complex.

Babaji has been involved in services in and for the Punjab for over 30 years. He stressed again and again of a strong commitment to Sikh values of contributing to improve life (of service, seva, through deeds not belief).

Situated in a poor area, out-migration is common and people don’t return. In addition, because they are lacking in the villages, there is need for health and education services. Through the initiatives of the Mission Hospital, efforts are being made to instruct the villagers about their health (food & exercise) and help rid themselves of substance addiction through literature and meetings. Primary health concerns are blood pressure, heart problems, basic health care, diabetes, and drug and alcohol addiction. HIV/AIDS has become a problem as well. Fifteen years ago, there were no reported cases in Punjab. Truck drivers traveling to major cities visit prostitutes and contract STDS, passing these on to their wives and other partners.

Established in 1993, the hospital began with fifty beds and now has over 200. It is the only hospital in the rural area and a trauma center is being built. When the hospital started, most were in favor of it but there was much jealously over the services to be offered. With its privately funded rural nursing facility, the hospital is regarded as a model institution in the area. At present, it is possible to recruit choice doctors, nurses, and technicians – offering them higher pay than government and other private hospitals. Many NRI (Non-Resident Indian) doctors come here for seva; most are from Canada and the US.

The nursing college was established in 1998 and offers a three-year BSc degree. Prior to this college, there were four nursing colleges in Punjab and two were Christian. Most Indian nurses are of Christian background; a large number are from Punjab and Kerala.

Affiliated to the University of British Columbia (UBC), exacting educational standards are met concerning the curriculum, maintenance, and overall performance of the college. Each year, four outstanding students are sent to UBC on an exchange program. Likewise, UBC students come to India. Graduates of the college go abroad to Canada, the US, the UK, and other places. Many graduates work in the local villages, advising about basic health issues. Babaji hopes to start a private medical college next years if the permits are attained.

I really enjoy our question & answer session with Babaji. He’s doing a good thing; offering much needed services and offering young people a chance to succeed at an education relevant to the changing needs of society. Babaji challenged our young minds, leaving us with a question: Do people or events create primary strands in history.

Travel Week, 3-9 August

Travel week is designed to introduce the program’s participants to the heart of Punjab, leaving the metropolis of Chandigarh far behind. We cross west into the Doaba and Majha regions for the first time. Our travels continue to Amritsar and the Wagah border crossing into Pakistan. The journey then turns northeast, climbing into the hilly country of Himachal Pradesh and to Dharamsala, home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile. Day trips explore important and oft-forgotten communities and places of reverence. The week leaves off where travels in the program began, under the gaze of the Goddess high above at Naina Devi.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Aditya Prakash remembered

Aditya Prakash, eminent architect, artist, and scholar, passed away on 11 August [link].

Here was a wonderful man who would come each year and talk to the participants of the Punjab Summer Studies Program. Prakash would lecture on his life in Chandigarh, how he had worked with Le Corbusier in the design of the city, and his active life in architecture, theatre, and art.

I first met him in 2004. After he talked, Prakash gifted many members of the group with two of his books, complete with his drawings. I present these artistic renditions here.






Hearing him speak again this summer, I was taken aback, as if for the first time, about his candor and admiration for the architecture of Chandigarh. I have always been troubled seeing Chandigarh as the City Beautiful. It is a city on a grid, of unfinished facades, a metropolis of socio-economic disparities. This is a consumer city, a little slice of the West on a plate of daal (lentil dish) and roti (unleavened bread).




As Prakash spoke of the city, of its successes and general problems, I began to see the dream La Corbusier had intended and I ceased to see Chandigarh as a city but rather as a number of communities existing and interacting on a social grid. The City Beautiful was intended to be India’s first modern city. Its sectors were designed to function as self-contained units. Each sector, with some exceptions, includes its own shopping and residential zones, health care and education facilities, and roads designed for specific types of vehicles. Other sectors were devoted entirely to higher education or to functioning as the city’s center – Sector-17. Although intended to be a pedestrian’s paradise, this dream has been lost to increasing traffic. Indeed, like all modern cities, Chandigarh is faced with problems but it continues to function as intended.

I may never see Chandigarh the way its architects imagined, but I must thank Aditya Prakash for opening my eyes and showing me another way to see the City Beautiful.